Twisty Slouchy

Just posted my second pattern on Ravelry. It's a simply lace and cable slouchy that has been torn apart and frogged three times before I was satisfied that it was perfect. Now that I have a few patterns under my belt I'm planning on turning more towards yarn support, sponsors, and publication. Not that I don't have a million more ideas I want to run with in terms of self publishing. I plan on doing at least a release every 2 weeks, focusing on accessories, with self publishing and taking bigger things to publishers. I'm so lucky to be able to have full time concentration on this starting out.
I'm short on time so here is Twisty!

Recommended skills: Basic lace (yo, decreases) and basic cabling

Size: Fits an average woman’s head (22”)

Measurements: 18” circumference (unstretched), 22” circumference (stretched), 9 ¾” long

Gauge: 11 sts = 2”, 8 rows = 1”

Tools: U.S. size 6 DPN of 16” circular needles, or size needed to obtain gauge.

    Cable needle

Yarn: About 200 yards of Simply Soft Caron in Pagoda (aran weight, 6 oz, 315 yards)

Buy it here!

The mathematics of determining a hat circumference

Posting my first selling design, Diamond Trinity, on Ravelry has been so far rewarding. Not with sales (as I hoped) but more with views and favs. The Ravelry community seems to like my work. Yay! I was so scared that nobody would look at it or want to make it but that doesn't seem to be the case. And I couldn't be happier. Well maybe with more sales but that'll come I'm sure.

Moving onto to more design with the feeling of accomplishment I have been faced with difficulty. My latest design for a hat was unsuccessful because it came out too big. I forgot about negative ease and while blocking the hat came out wayyy too big. So I was forced to frog the entire item and make some adjustments. I didn't realize coming into designing that it requires so much math! But to be proficient you have to get things right the first time.

But I thought the way I thought this through would be a good idea to mention to my fellow readers as some might be interested in how a designer determines the hat circumference especially with a stitch repeat pattern involved. And this will help you if you want to change a hat size if the designer didn't include the size you want.

It's really all about mathematics and a little swatching. As long as you know the circumference you wish it to be, the stitch repeat (if there is any), and the gauge, you can potentially design any hat you want without guessing. The gauge you get by swatching a 4x4 square. Make sure it measures out as a whole number of stitches, that'll make it easier to work even if it's by 1", 2", or 4". The stitch repeat you'll need to make sure that the numbers match up especially if your stitch repeat and gauge are two different numbers.

For example:

• The circumference of an average adult woman is 22". Subtracting 2 for the negative ease (22-2) that'll equal 20 for the total circumference of the hat.
• The stitch repeat for this hat will be 12 st.
• The gauge is 11 sts = 2", 8 rows = 1".

Now to figure out how many stitches are needed for a 20" hat with a 11/2 gauge you multiply the circumference by the gauge. (Note: Make sure to keep the gauge a ratio (11/2) as to make sure you don't end up with an inaccurate sized hat. If the gauge was 23 sts = 4" you'd write that out as 23/4, it won't come out as a whole number but it's a more accurate measurement then if you estimated it to 1" yourself.)

So 20 * (11/2) = 110 st.

Now if you didn't have a stitch repeat (like a basic stockinette hat) that would the number of stitches needed for a hat that would fit that gauge and be snug on an average woman's head (22"). You just cast on 110 sts and start knitting.

But this hat has a 12 st repeat. Which will complicate farther because dividing 12 by 110 doesn't equal a whole number. So how do you figure this out? I do it by dividing 12 by 110 and round to the nearest whole number. It won't all perfectly fit but it gets me as close to the size I need that it won't make too much a difference. 110/12 = 9.166... That rounds to 9. Which makes 9 repeats of a 12 st repeat. Now to get the accurate number of stitches you multiply 9 by 12. 9*12 = 108. Which isn't that far off from the original number of 110. So really it won't affect your sizing that much but keeps you from having a wrong number of stitches for your hat. Cast on 108 and start knitting. I'll post more about determining a length in another post.

Advanced things to keep in mind:

If you are making a hat with ribbing don't forget that your stitches need to also equal your ribbing. Like if you wanted your hat to have a 4 st ribbing (k2, p2) and your number of stitches were 110, your ribbing would be off because 110/4 = 27.5. Now to fix this you would need to either increase or decrease the number of stitches to make the ribbing then decrease or increase the number before starting on the stitch pattern. For a 4 st repeat you could either cast on 108 or 112. With 108 you'd have to increase by 2 sts somewhere after finishing the ribbing or with 112 you'd have a decrease by 2 sts somewhere after finishing the ribbing to get back to 110. Now since the ribbing is usually smaller than the hat because of it's elasticity I'd suggest making it a little bigger than decrease the hat, it won't make that much difference with the sizing. Decrease after the ribbing can be easy if you knit the entire first row before starting on the stitch repeat pattern because you can just knit 2 together twice equally without too much problem. If not then just try to figure out where you can inconspicuously knit 2 together twice in your pattern without much notice.

And it's just like that. Now if you're a little math challenge this might not be easy for you understand and I'm sorry. I wish I knew a way that was simpler and brought the same results. But as of yet I don't :( If I do though, I won't hesitate to post about it. Now off to finish this hat!

Diamond Trinity Pattern Release!

I'm so excited to finally get this pattern completed and pictures done! It was the first pattern I started working on when I decided to try my hand at designing but had the misfortune of the first completed piece not come out as planned. This is a pattern for solid color yarn than variegated. I completed this one last night, had it blocked and drying overnight to be ready for pictures today! The weather was gorgeous this morning but by the time we got outside it got cloudy. Not that the pictures didn't come out good!

The pattern will be available on Ravelry for $3.00! The detail and link for the pattern will be at the bottom of this post.

And now to present:

Diamond Trinity

Named loosely for the three cable pattern designs that seamlessly link together to create this unique headband, it's a quick knit up that can be completed in an evening.  A good beginner exploring cable, practice using a wide variety of cable techniques from the most common (6 stitch cable twist) to a more complex diamond design.

Garter rows at the back makes it stretchy for an one size fit all.

Finished measurements:
21" circumference (unstretched)
4 1/2" widest part

Gauge:
4 st  and 5 rows = 1"

Material:
U.S. size 7 or size required to obtain gauge
2 Stitch Markers
Yarn: Worsted weight, used about 100 yards of Red Heart Soft yarn in Pewter.

Buy it Now

First pattern is free!

I've been working hard on my designs the last couple weeks, there's been a couple hiccups with a few of them but have finally got a pair of fingerless mittens that have worked up nicely and have the pattern written out to share. I am one of those people that have obsessions with certain designs or techniques depending on my mood mainly. I once considered naming this blog after the stitch herringbone when I was making my boyfriend a hat with it. . . So glad that didn't take. But anyways, right now I'm obsessed with the look of the moss stitch or seed stitch, whatever name you prefer. I was laying awake late one night and thought up this design. It's simple, classy, and I'm offering it up free! What better way to join the world of knit designing than with a free pattern. Just grab up a some amount of DK weight from your stash and your U.S. size 3 DPN needles (or Magic Loop it with circular needles)

And now introducing:

THIRTEEN

I named these for my favorite singer's favorite number ;)

Made with simple moss stitch on the outside of each hand and on the thumb gusset I believe these can be a perfect gloves for a beginner or a quick stitch up for an intermediate.

I have very small hands so these only are sized for a 6" wrist and with a 1/2" increase towards the top but they are stretchy. Sizing for medium and large will be put on Ravelry in a couple days. As soon as I size them appropriately.

Materials:
Yarn: About half skein of DK weight (I used Simply Soft Caron in Harvest Red, even though it says worsted weight it felt more like DK, cheap yarn will do that...)

Needles: U.S. size 3 DPN or circular (Magic Loop) or size used to obtain gauge.

2 Stitch markers

Stitch holder

Blunt yarn needle

Finished size: Small: 6" circumference from the wrist and 6 1/2" at the top. 5" long

Gauge: 6 sts = 1"

Special abbrev:

kfb: knit front and back of stitch

PM: place marker

M: marker

SM: slip marker

Special note: For the first kfb in the thumb section of the increasing rows that requires kfb (SM inbetween last 2 sts) I first knit the stitch, slip the marker to the working needle (for RHers that's the right, LHers, that's the left), then reinsert the last stitch used onto the opposite needle, and knit through the back loop. Therefore making the stitch marker in the middle of those two stitches and still working a kfb increase.

Pattern: (For the Right Hand)

CO 38 sts and join in rounds.

Knit (k1, p1) ribbing for 4 rows.

Row 1: k12, p1, k1, p1, k til end.

Row 2: k13, p1, k til end

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 twice more.

(Increase for thumb)

Row 1: k12, p1, k1, p1, k17, kfb (PM inbetween last 2 sts just made), PM, k til end.

Row 2: k13, p1, k til 1 st before M, kfb (SM inbetween last 2 sts), kfb, SM, k til end

Row 3: k12, p1, k1, p1, k til 1 st before M, kfb, (SM inbetween last 2 sts), k1, p1, kfb, SM, k til end.
Row 4: k13, p1, k til M, SM, (k1,p1) twice, k1, SM, k til end.

Row 5: k12, p1, k1, p1, k til M, SM, p1 (k1, p1) twice, SM, k til end.

Row 6: k13, p1, k til 1 st before M, kfb, (SM inbetween last 2 sts), (k1, p1) twice, kfb, SM, k til end.

Row 7: k12, p1, k1, p1, k til M, SM, (k1,p1) three times, k1, SM, k til end.

Row 8: k13, p1, k til M, SM, (p1, k1) three times, p1, SM, k til end.

Row 9: k12, p1, k1, p1, k til 1 st before M, kfb (SM inbetween last 2 sts), (k1, p1) three times, kfb, SM, k til end.

Row 10: k13, p1, k til M, SM, (k1,p1) four times, k1, SM, k til end.

Row 11: k12, p1, k1, p1, k til M, SM, (p1, k1) four times, p1, SM, k til end.

Row 12: k13, p1, k til 1 st before M, kfb, (SM inbetween last 2 sts) (k1,p1) four times, kfb, SM, k til end. 

Row 13: k12, p1, k1, p1, k til M, put next 11 sts on st holder, co 6 sts, k til end.

Row 14: k13, p1, k til end.

Row 15: k12, p1, k1, p1, k til end.

Repeat Rows 14 & 15 for 11 more rows, ending with Row 14.
Next row: k1, ssk, k9, p1, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k19, k2tog, k1.
Knit (k1, p1) ribbing for 2 rows then BO. Weave in ends.

Thumb: (for both)
Place the 11 sts from the st holder to a needle, pick up 8 sts, and follow the moss st pattern (alternating k & p) for the 11 sts and knit the 8 sts for 5 rows.
Next row: Sl 1, (k1, p1) ribbing til the last st, slip slipped st over and p2tog. (18 sts)
Knit (k1, p1) ribbing the next row then BO. Weave in ends.

Pattern: (for the Left Hand):

CO 38 sts and join in rounds.

Knit (k1, p1) ribbing for 4 rows.

Row 1: k4, p1, k1, p1, k til end.

Row 2: k5, p1, k til end.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 twice more.

(Increase for thumb)

Row 1: k4, p1, k1, p1, k16, kfb (PM inbetween last 2 sts just made), PM k til end.

Row 2: k5, p1, k til 1 st before M, kfb (SM inbetween last 2 sts), kfb, SM, k til end.

Row 3: k4, p1, k1, p1, k til 1 st before M, kfb, (SM inbetween last 2 sts), k1, p1, kfb, SM, k til end.

Row 4: k5, p1, k til M, SM, (k1,p1) twice, k1, SM, k til end.

Row 5: k4, p1, k1, p1, k til M, SM, p1 (k1, p1) twice, SM, k til end.

Row 6: k5, p1, k til 1 st before M, kfb, (SM inbetween last 2 sts), (k1, p1) twice, kfb, SM, k til end.

Row 7: k4, p1, k1, p1, k til M, SM, (k1,p1) three times, k1, SM, k til end.

Row 8: k5, p1, k til M, SM, (p1, k1) three times, p1, SM, k til end.

Row 9: k4, p1, k1, p1, k til 1 st before M, kfb (SM inbetween last 2 sts), (k1, p1) three times, kfb, SM, k til end.

Row 10: k5, p1, k til M, SM, (k1,p1) four times, k1, SM, k til end.

Row 11: k4, p1, k1, p1, k til M, SM, (p1, k1) four times, p1, SM, k til end.

Row 12: k5, p1, k til 1 st before M, kfb, (SM inbetween last 2 sts) (k1,p1) four times, kfb, SM, k til end. 

Row 13: k4, p1, k1, p1, k til M, put next 11 sts on st holder, co 6 sts, k til end.

Row 14: k5, p1, k til end.

Row 15: k4, p1, k1, p1, k til end.

Repeat Rows 14 & 15 for 11 more rows, ending with Row 14.

Next row: k1, ssk, k1, p1, k1, p1, k9, k2tog, k2, ssk, k19, k2tog, k1

Knit (k1, p1) ribbing for 2 rows then BO. Weave in ends.

Repeat for the Thumb.

And you're done :) If the explanation for the first kfb is confusing I do have pictures. The markers are mainly there to help distinguish where the thumb increase is, making writing the pattern easier. I thought of doing a chart but I wasn't sure there was a symbol for kfb . M1 or YO would not be appropriate for this pattern for I was trying to make the bump from the b in kfb look like a purl for the moss pattern. I, myself, thought that pretty clever, hehe. And that's all folks. I plan on posting this free pattern on Ravelry if I can figure out how to do it on Kindle and hopefully have an update on larger sizes here in a couple days. (This will be my first try at grading).
If you have an questions, confusion, etc with the pattern don't hesitate to comment below, I will get back to you as soon as possible. And sign up for email updates so you don't miss out on any more of my patterns or updates!
Talk soon!

Finally! Starting new.

I can't believe I'm finally taking this step. But I have to. Because I need a place to showcase my knitting to eyes that will see and appreciate. Because really, how many non-knitters really do appreciate the hard work and agony that a knitter goes through to make a stellar piece of work, like a sweater or even a pair of socks. Yeah, I make it look easy but honestly it destroys my brain! And imagine more agony it takes to make something from the mind, plucking it out of imagination and inspiration and creating something with two needles and a ball of yarn (or two... or three... etc)

It's hard work, especially when the people around you look at it and they aren't filled with wonder as you are. Sure, they say it's pretty and they think what you did was cool but they don't understand! They don't know the hours you've spent with needles in your hands, trying to pay attention to the television and the knitting, figuring out at the last moment that two rows down you missed a stitch and debating on if you want to frog what you've done or modify it and keep going hoping that nobody sees the mess up. (I'm a frog-hater...) They don't know how long you've been stashing that yarn waiting for the perfect project to rear it's head and speak for it. Or the obsessive amount of yarn you have hoarded up in every cranny of your house. They don't know how long that project has been sitting in the nightstand at your bedside waiting for you to pick it up and finish it. But, my fellow knitter, I know, and I know you know. And that's why I've made this blog. To give you someone you know you can turn to and ogle over yarn and knitting patterns with. To come back to and see what I've made and created for your eyes to enjoy.

I have a few projects on the needles right now and a few designs floating around in my head that I haven't had yet to start on. I've been knitting since I was 10, which make it 11 years off and on that I've been knitting and crocheting. I'm not the biggest crocheter anymore, knitting became my passion when I grew more patience instead of wanting instant gratification that crocheting gives me. I've been designing knitwear since I was in high school but only seriously have been writing patterns and making sketches recently. I will enjoy getting to know you readers, and hopefully growing this into a successful blog with some trial and error, I'm sure. And I'll leave you with this little peek at my newest design. Hopefully soon it will be ready to go up on Ravelry (Who isn't on that site?!) I'm HammyDesigns on there.

Talk to you soon!